In early December, my friend Chiara offered to teach me how to cook some traditional Venetian fish dishes. We started on Saturday at the Rialto market, where I learned how to buy a large squid and gamberetti (for lunch on Sunday with Ettore and Tom), as well as vongole veraci for Saturday's lunch after the lesson. Back at her house after shopping, I took notes by drawing, as she worked. I am not sure that I have mastered skinning the squid, but I understand how to clean the shrimps and cook the clams. I was so pleased by this (and so amazed by the taste of the fresh clams that I did it several times on my own in the following weeks.